Can Tonsai Be Topped?

There were only two good things about having to leave Koh Yao Noi: We didn’t have to say goodbye to our friends; and the day we arrived in Tonsai ended up being one of the single best days of our trip so far.

Spoiler alert: our last day in Tonsai may have been even more awesome than the first.

We left Koh Yao Noi as a team. Bass ferried us all across on his long-tail while Perg, Jim, Julia, Michelle, and I laughed and drank breakfast beers. We watched for man-of-wars floating in the sea and gazed at the karst limestone towers rising from the water.

When we pulled into Tonsai bay it was obvious that we were going to love it here. Picture a tropical playground where you can do (almost) anything you imagine (except ski). In one frame you can capture beautiful beaches dotted with beautiful people swimming, overhang cliffs covered with climbers, fishing boats, kayaks, paddle boards, bars slinging cold beers on the beach, and restaurants serving delicious Thai food.

Day One:

We hopped off the boat and mosied into the jungle to find a place to stay. We bagged a private bungalow for 400 baht per night ($12). Then, walked the short trail back to the beach where we had lunch and watched the climbers overhead.

After lounging on the beach for the past few days, we were all ready for something more active and adventurous. We decided to try to find a deep water soloing tour. Several climbing guide organizations provide boat tours to the nearby limestone towers, where you can climb up the cliffs as high as you dare with no ropes to catch your fall, only the water below. We were out of luck, though. All the tours left earlier that morning. It proved to be a blessing in disguise, as our faithful friend Bass told us he would take us anywhere we wanted in his trusty long-tail.

It was only a question of finding where we could climb. We scouted some islands in the distance, ventured out to explore and were not disappointed. We found a playground of overhanging walls and spent the afternoon diving off the roof of the boat, monkeying around on the rock, and shrieking as we jumped from the cliffs. It was such a simple and pure way to climb: cheering on your friends, no ropes or harnesses to deal with, we didn’t even have any shoes. It was bliss.

We landed back in Tonsai in time to watch the sunset from the beachside bar. We sat around and over several rounds of cold beers talked travel, past adventures and future plans. We fended off the monkeys that tried to raid the table of our snacks, and watched as one unsuspecting guy was literally mugged and pickpocket by one particularly brazen monkey.

Sadly, we said goodbye to Julia, Jim and Perg the next morning. Julia and Jim headed back to the states to start a new adventure together. Perg, I have a feeling, is a character that will pop up in future adventures.

So, for the next week we would be by ourselves on Tonsai, just us and the hundreds of rock climbers and resort goers that flock to this beach paradise from all over the world.

A typical day would go as follows:

We would wake up to monkey calls every morning. Living amongst the jungle wildlife has its hardships, however. Our mosquito net protected us from most of the bugs, but we could literally hear our bungalow being devoured by termites.

After coffee and breakfast we would do the 15 minute walk to the adjacent Railay beach. It involves a stroll down the beach, passing a few popular climbing crags, then a short hike through the jungle.

Railay was a much more pleasant beach than Tonsai, and there is a clear segregation of the climbers on Tonsai and the wealthier resort goers on Railay. On Railay, we would soak in the sun, read books, and swim in the calm, clear waters all day until it was time for dinner. Then we would retrace the path back to Tonsai.

After cold showers and dinner we would enjoy the night life. Usually starting at the beachside bar for sunset, then walking the trail back into the jungle the bars would get louder and rowdier as the night went on. None of the bars had any walls, but they all had plenty of fire dancers spinning flaming torches through the night. The bars were packed with an eclectic clientele consisting of international riff raff. We fit right in.

One such resident was our next door neighbor, Phil, a Canadian who was just as polite and friendly as every Canadian stereotype I’ve ever heard. We spent our final day at Tonsai with Phil and shared a great adventure.

Last Day in Tonsai:

Perg had told us about it, but Phil provided the encouragement to explore the cave through the mountain. On a cliff on the far side of Railay beach, we climbed up a short approach pitch that took us to the mouth of a cave about 60 feet above the ground. From there, we followed ropes and bamboo ladders down into the dark. We passed huge caverns, cliffs, stalagmites and stalagmites all illuminated only by our headlamps. When we exited out into the daylight we found ourselves in yet another tropical paradise.

On the opposite side of the cave lies a climbing route called “The Best Route in Minnesota” and is surely one of the best of its grade. A long sweeping line arcs it’s way up the rock that twists back into itself to form the mouth of the enormous cave.

After an inspiring climb, the three of us walked out onto the beach and Phil told us about another cave of a different sort. The princess cave contains hundreds of offerings made by local boatmen to the legend of the sea princess. These offerings come in all sizes, but only one shape, that of the male genitalia. The phallic form know as a linga is a sacred shape in Hindu tradition and is commonly found throughout Thailand, but it’s hard not giggle at them sometimes.

We walked back to Tonsai together in the fading sunset. We enjoyed some more delicious local Thai food for dinner and then, when it was time for some cold beers, we met up with a great group of friends that we made just that morning. We enjoyed some of the local treats served over-the-counter at the bar, drank tall cold beers, tested our impaired balance on the slackline, enjoyed a late-night banana & Nutella pancake, and laughed late into the night.

The next morning we departed Tonsai. The place captured a piece of our hearts and we felt like we could have stayed forever. We also realized its a place we will likely return, although it’s a place changing so fast that it will never be the same again.